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This section will list writing other than novels by Jim Crace. It is not intended to be a comprehensive list but to give an overview of Crace’s career outside novel-writing. Where feasible I will reproduce the text of these pieces, or selections from them.

Material is grouped into the subsections listed below.

Uncollected short fiction

Plays

Memoirs

Selected journalism

Reviews and introductions

Opinions

 

Uncollected short fiction

Annie, California Plates’, The New Review, 1:3 (1974), pp 30-33. Click here to read Crace’s first published story.

‘Helter Skelter, Hang Sorrow, Care’ll Kill a Cat’, The New Review, 2:21 (December 1975), pp 45-49. Reprinted in Cosmopolitan and included in Introduction 6: stories by new writers (Faber, 1977). Click here to read this story of a husband’s revenge.

‘Cross-Country’, The New Review, 3:25 (April 1976), pp 47-52. This story appears, in somewhat revised form, in Crace’s first book Continent.

‘Refugees’, Socialist Challenge (December 1977). Click here to read this tale of Africa.

‘Seven Ages’, Quarto (June 1980), broadcast as “Middling” by BBC Radio 3 (date tbc). Click here to read the story that ‘marked the start of [Crace’s] migration from journalism to fiction’.

 
Plays
The Bird Has Flown, tx 28 October 1976 (Afternoon Theatre, Radio 4). Produced and directed by Michael Rolfe for BBC Birmingham. “Charles Sydney ‘Cuckoo’ Clock has a curious relationship with the police. Will young, pert, attractive WPC Drew discover what it is – or will her colleagues arrive in time?” (Radio Times billing).

A Coat of Many Colours (working title: Salateen), tx 26 March 1979 (Saturday Night Theatre, Radio 4). Directed by Michael Rolfe for BBC Birmingham. “In March, 1895, following almost thirteen years of imprisonment by the Mahdist forces in the Sudan, Rudolph Slatin escaped and made his way to an English garrison at Aswan. Slatin, an Austrian officer, and ex-Governor of Darfur, survived to tell his tale by adopting new faiths and allegiances to suit the occasion. His credo of ‘survival’ runs contrary to that of George Chesney, the young Victorian officer and gentleman to whom he tells his tale.” (Radio Times billing).

 

Memoirs

Have You Seen Our Chicken?, a parable of Christmas, pub. 23 December 2007 in the Independent on Sunday.

 

If it’s roughly 2pm on Christmas Day and the roast is almost ready to be served, then you can guarantee that yet again I will emerge none too briefly through the smog of sprout steam to stand at the kitchen door and bore my famished family with the parable of the disappearing chicken:

 

It was Christmas 1952. I was just a kid, overexcited by that year’s present of a model, gold Coronation coach and a full Colour Party of Coldstream Guards, only two inches tall but equipped with rifles, flags and detachable plastic busbies. Throughout that morning, I had arranged them marching across the lino of our flat on the Pilgrim estate in Enfield, north London; I’d had them laying siege to last year’s plywood castle; I’d had them marching in the lavatory towards the Queen’s enthronement underneath the bath. So I was reluctant to abandon these battles and parades (and my sling of chocolate coins) to go across the entry for our usual Christmas morning drink with the Bancrofts.

 

Charley Crace, my admirably taciturn dad, had already made his escape, of course. He was socially ham-fisted, and so had done us all a favour by rushing off to his allotment to pick the sprouts and curly kale as soon as mum had got her lipstick out. Couldn’t I be taciturn, as well, and stay at home? But my mother, Jane, made it clear I had no choice. “Be neighbourly. Wipe your face,” she said, “while I check the chicken and put the potatoes round.” Ever the caterer; there was nothing she enjoyed more than feeding us. I could not imagine a Christmas roast prepared more lovingly than hers.

 

Except this year, I was dreading lunch. I knew that chicken personally. It was Ferdinand, north London’s quietest cockerel. He had been pecking round the wire cold-frame in our shared garden for two years, growing fat and complacent on our leftovers. He had been, therefore, an uncomplaining bird, and cunning, possibly, determined to survive. He’d never upset our neighbours with any doodle-doos. He’d never pecked aggressively. In fact, he let me and my brother, Richard, stroke and cuddle him. He groomed us, actually. We loved and fed him like a dog.

 

And so, although he’d been fattened originally for the 1951 Christmas table, it had been no surprise when Dad, armed with a length of twine, a hatchet, a knife and a shaking hand, chickened out as it were and granted Ferdinand a stay of execution until 1952. He told our neighbours that we’d reprieved Ferdie for the eggs. “And for the milk,” I used to add. So, for another year, our dinner pecked around our garden, living it up on mum’s best food. We’d bought him in the first place to save money. But Ferdinand – too plump to move far, too spoilt to make do with toast crusts and dried porridge – was costing us a fortune by now. I used to raid the fridge for him, behind mum’s back. This cockerel was very fond of corned beef, I discovered by experiment, and slices of tongue. He was not fond of tinned salmon or pickles.

 

Now twelve months on, as Ferdinand’s second Christmas approached, dad worked hard to feel ashamed of his previous soft-heartedness – this was only a table bird, after all – and finally plucked up courage. One late December morning when we were at school, he stepped into the cold frame with a sack and took Christmas dinner – protesting noisily for once – down to the shops where Ansell the Butcher was happy -for half a crown- to do what dad could not. By the time we got home Ferdinand was slaughtered, plucked, trussed and gibleted, and sitting cross-legged in the fridge.

 

The Bancrofts’ Christmas present for me that year was a white Dinky ambulance. I’d hoped for a police car or a fire engine or at least a khaki military ambulance with a red cross on its side. “It can go behind the Coronation coach,” I said, putting a brave face on my disappointment. “It can have the dead king inside.” My successful joke only partly lifted my mood. I’d been dragged from my toys and my chocolate, I’d been forced to wipe my face,  I had been given the world’s worst Dinky – and Ferdinand, dear Ferdinand, was crisping up for lunch.

 

I cheered up though, when we got home. Again mum checked to see how dinner was getting on. I can remember it exactly: the Cannon cooker leaking smoke, my mother opening the mottled blue enamel door in her new oven gloves (my uninspired gift), her cry of baffled disbelief when she discovered that Ferdinand had disappeared – and that he’d taken all the spuds, the stuffing and the roasting tin along with him. My Dad was at the door by now, with his trug of winter greens. My parents knelt down on the kitchen floor and peered in at the oven flames. They even checked the oven with a torch, as if the half-cooked bird could have found a hiding place. But no -glad tidings of great joy- Ferdinand had definitely gone. We wouldn’t have to eat our pet. Hosanna in excelsior.

 

Now, losing Christmas dinner was no small matter, especially in a one-income working class family such as ours. A show of anger would not have been out of place, or a 999 call. Some tears, even. This was the meanest of crimes. But all my father did was laugh and wash the sprouts. And all my mother said was “Never mind.” She only wished that whoever it was that had walked in through our never-bolted door, whoever it was who had risked their finger tips to steal our Christmas dinner, and carry it piping hot away from the flats, really needed it: “I hope it’s gone to someone poor.” 

 

An image almost out of Dickens came to me –still comes to me, whenever I remember Christmas 1952: it’s Ferdinand and our potatoes, lit by candle-light, surrounded by a throng of street urchins, about to have their first good meal. They’re holding wooden spoons. Their mouths are watering. Oh, how I loved my mum and dad right then. How proud I was of them for their calmness and their charity. How I love them now – though both are dead – when Christmas comes and I can tell my family, as we prepare to eat, about the darling cockerel and what he signifies.

 

What did we eat that day? I hardly want to tell you, because it weakens everything I’ve told you up to now, everything except the love I felt. “I’ve got a bit of cold tongue,” mum suggested finally. “That’ll have to do.” Sprouts, curly kale and tongue. She went to get it from our big gas fridge. And once again, I heard her cry of baffled disbelief. We thought the fridge had been burgled, too. Everything had gone. But, no, she’d discovered Ferdinand. “Be neighbourly,” she’d said, as we’d prepared to go into the Bancroft’s flat, an hour previously. “Wipe your face, while I check the chicken and put the potatoes round.” She’d checked the chicken, yes. She’d put in the spuds. But then – to borrow Gerard Hoffnung’s celebrated phrase – she “must have lost her presence of mind” and confused the oven with the fridge.

 

We all sat round our galvanised kitchen table, warmed by the open grate of the coal boiler, that Christmas Day, 1952, not quite sure if our enjoyment had been saved or squandered, whether we would feel mean or generous to tuck into our meal. We certainly were smiling, though. And then I can’t remember anything.  Dad must have finally taken a knife to Ferdinand and filled our plates. My brother says he can’t “recall the eating.” Nor can I.

 

© Jim Crace 2007

 

 

 

Robinson Crusoe, a memory of a contented childhood, pub. 18 August 2007 in the Financial Times Weekend Magazine ‘Once Upon a Time’ column.

 

My father was a hesitant reader when I was a child. His own schooling had been cut short by osteomyelitis when he was about ten, in the early 1920s. So reading Defoe’s Robinson Crusoe aloud to me and my brother was a struggle for him – and a struggle for us, too. He was attempting the unabridged version which, unlike later robinsonnades such as Treasure Island and The Swiss Family Robinson, was not truly a novel intended for children, despite a subtitle which promised “Strange Surprizing Adventures”.  Its religious overtones and Defoe’s ruminations on Providence and Commerce were lost on us. But thank goodness for my father’s determination (and Defoe’s testing prolixity) because it was those details, missing from the edition “simplified for the younger reader”, that most delighted me; those long, passages that described Crusoe’s boyish scavenging as he fought against the breakers to save anything useful from the wreck of his ship, his thrilling ingenuity in making from these smashed and sodden components a tolerable life. I used to ask my father to read them slowly several times, so that I could keep and equip my imagination with a written salvage log of my own:  “one pair of large sizzers”, “two shoes that were not fellows”, “three Dutch cheeses”, “seven musquets”, etcetera. 

 

Then – in a household of little other entertainment – I could amuse myself in front of the fire by mapping Crusoe’s island and putting all my salvage to good use. And on fine days I could construct a stockade in the green belt behind our flat and check the muddy lanes for Friday’s footprint. Never since have I been so thoroughly immersed in a book. It served and nurtured my innate and lifelong love of islands, the sea-shore, and especially flotsam. It also has become the enduring reminder of a contented childhood.

 

© Jim Crace 2007

 

 

Enfield, from the Sunday Times series in which writers return to the places they began, pub. 8 October 2006

 

I had been promised access – a warm welcome even – to the home where I was brought up, in what was virtually the last building in north London. This was where the city and the suburbs stopped abruptly and, thanks to the Green Belt ordinances of 1938, the countryside began, protected and uncompromised. Our ground floor flat on the Pilgrim Estate in the Forty Hill area of Enfield, was urban, cramped and nondescript, but I hardly remember spending any time indoors. A rustic paradise for kids was just a stroll away. Within minutes we could be scrumping damsons from farm hedgerows, spotting badgers on the fringes of virgin woodlands, trespassing in barns, playing “Spitfire” on our bikes in open fields, hearing nightingales, smelling slurry. Here was London at its most bucolic.

 

It would be my first visit to the flat in 44 years and one which, given the recent death of my mother and the distant but still unabsorbed death of my father, promised to be both fulfilling and disturbing. One of its two current residents had said it would be “intriguing” to hear how much the place had changed since I was a child.

 

I looked forward to boring him about the rough domesticity of the post-War years and what a happy household it had always been for us. I did not expect to find anything I recognised. Our coke-fuelled boiler (that had taken four hours to heat the bath water) and the open fire, the deep Belfast sink with its wooden draining board, the galvanised Utility kitchen surfaces could not have survived the decades of Home Improvement and DIY. But the layout of the rooms would be the same. And there would be a torrent of welcome memories.

  

But at the last moment, I received a second, less encouraging call. I wasn’t welcome after all. The current resident had been forthcoming. Now he was icy. He had discussed my visit with his partner and what had been “intriguing” had become “inconvenient.”  I was surprised –not to be refused entry. Why would this young couple want me poking round their home? - but to be so suddenly tearful.  Those sixteen years in our street, Adelaide Close, had encompassed an immensely contented childhood. There were no ghosts or unhealed scars. I had imagined that when I saw the flat’s few rooms again all that happiness would be redelivered in some way. Now it was beyond reach. Its door had slammed on me.

 

Next morning, when the occupants were at work, I snooped around outside our flat. I had hoped to peer in through the netted windows. Perhaps I’d revive some image of my father, Charley, stern and indecipherable, engrossed in the News Chronicle; or my tirelessly hospitable mother, Jane, busy with her copper, mangle and steam iron. But in closes such as this, especially nowadays, casual visitors are scrutinised, mistrusted even. I was twice challenged with a “Can I help?” I settled for sitting in the car and staring across the same brick wall, the same wrought iron gate, and seemingly the same patch of lawn that we had had fifty years previously, towards a decoratively-bricked, arched entry that was once always open but was now locked and protected by security lights.

 

Very little had changed in Adelaide Close. The public pig bin where we used to dump our swill and the street gas lights had been removed years ago, of course. There were no horse-drawn traders or boys with buckets collecting the manure. And I could hear no chickens in the yards, being fattened up for Christmas. (Our own cockerel, Ferdinand, had been too lovable and then too tough to ever make it to the plate.) But on the green in the middle of the Close which delivery horses had cropped short and we had then scuffed bald with our football boots and skipping ropes, there was now good grass and some fine cherry and acacia trees. Take away the bumper-to-bumper parked cars and it could be 1952. This was still a very modest, unexciting and decent place to live. Though not with children, possibly. I saw only young couples and the elderly.

 

Later that afternoon, I managed to blag my way into an identical building to ours (loftily described by an estate agent as “a maisonette, with GCH and ORP”) by pretending that I was interested in renting it. “Perfect for a single gentleman,” the agent told me, not liking to inquire if she were dealing with a widower, a divorcee or a bachelor. Indeed, it was hard to imagine that these one-and-a-half bedroom flats, before the Revolution of Expectations had inflated our cravings for personal space and private possessions, ever housed families larger than two and a cat. How had we all fitted in – our family of four, with even larger families as neighbours - and still had room for that freezer-sized cabinet wireless with its huge glass valves and the great gas fridge?

 

I stood at the door of the smaller bedroom while the agent proposed “It’d make a nice study.” It certainly wouldn’t make much of a bedroom for two growing boys. I had shared such a room with my elder brother, Richard. It was not quite large enough to take two full-length single beds and still open the door. I had slept on a short divan, bought second-hand from a War-time amputee until, when I was about fourteen and my brother was seventeen, I’d outgrown it. Then we’d moved into the bigger room and my parents had slept on a Put-u-Up settee in the lounge. For £850 a month, I could sleep in such a room again, access to my childhood happiness almost available after all, if I would only sign along the dotted line, pay a fat deposit, and provide convincing references.

 

*

 

I drive along the back lanes of Forty Hill, and walk the alleys at the side of Enfield’s New Canal, past the house where Charles and Mary Lamb once lived and squabbled, past the site where John Keats went to school, past the plague burial ground. My companion is the writer and academic, Philip Tew, a professor at Brunel University. He is from Enfield, too. In critical studies of my novels he has commented on their recurring themes of city versus countryside, and the dominance of what is false yet captivating over what is true but dull. Both themes, he claims, have their roots in my upbringing; the fiction is a product of the Close. I argue that my story – like that of suburban Enfield itself - is too unchallenged and unchallenging to be worthy of fiction. It starts off well enough, however.

 

I can at least boast an aristocratic birth although my association with Brocket Hall, the stately home in Hertfordshire – requisitioned as a wartime maternity hospital - where I was born, only lasted ten days. This was a house which had, and continues to have, unsavoury associations – Palmerston dead under a maid on the billiard table, for example; Lady Caroline Lamb, served naked in a soup tureen to the young George IV. My specific place of birth was Joachim von Ribbentrop’s bedroom. The German ambassador and Nazi foreign minister had been a regular house guest at Brocket Hall before he was recalled to Berlin in 1936. The family joke was that I was born not with a silver spoon in my mouth, but an Iron Cross.

 

After  Monday 11th March 1946 when my uncle Harold drove me (painted gentian violet to treat the thrush I had contracted at birth) back to Adelaide Close in his spiv’s car, fuelled with black market petrol, my life turned as watery and white as the snow which my brother tells me, hampered our return. I was not ill again. I never saw my parents argue. I never heard them swear even. I was never hit, nor come to think of it, was I shouted at. Our Close was the perfect place for such an uneventful upbringing, safe, undistinguished, and anonymous. A cul-de-sac.

 

I learned to bulk things up to make my life, my family, myself seem more substantial: the wounds in my father’s arm became the work of German machine guns rather than osteomyelitis; my grandma was provided with a gypsy background; my place of birth was evidence of my lost nobility; and the clattering machine in Greenall the bookmaker’s house was not for ticker tape but – I romantically approved of this - coded messages to Moscow. I would not admit to strangers to being an Enfield boy. Too dreary. No, I was from Tottenham, a tough and edgy place. In short, preferring the false to the dull, I learned to compensate for the ordinariness of life by lying.

 

And maybe this does explain the novels, as Philip Tew has claimed: my safe and ordinary childhood, my upbringing at the hems of both town and field, my early propensity for lying might indeed explain the non-autobiographical, landscape-fixated, fabulist books that I have written almost intuitively as an adult. 

 

*

 

My secondary school was the historic and snobbish Enfield Grammar, just behind the market square in Town. I showed up there, aged eleven, with the wrong class background (working), the wrong accent (Norf Lunnon) and, most problematically for a self-conscious boy, the wrong blazer - cheap wool from the Co-op warehouse in Leman Street rather than the glossy barathea with metal buttons sported by our better-off contemporaries.

 

Enfield in those days was a divided borough. “Town” to the west, where all the parks and the big houses were. And to the east, in a strip along the Hertford Road, the glumly named localities – “suburbs” is not the word - of Ponders End, the Wash, Brimsdown and Freezywater, where all the council housing and the factories were.

 

Town has an eerie familiarity – it has hardly changed at all, except of course that traffic is heavy, managed and one-way and parking is hard to find unless you want to bump up on the pavement. (Enfield Council netted a useful £1.5million in fines from just that habit in 2005). There are no longer any pollution-friendly trolley buses, regrettably. The three enticingly named cinemas – the Florida, Rialto and Savoy - shut down long ago. Most of the traditional single, family shops have become outposts of the multinationals, in an unbroken line from McDonalds to HMV. What was Scroggies, an amiably cluttered shoe shop owned and managed by our neighbour in Adelaide Close, is now a Starbucks.

 

And the faces seem less exclusively white, (in the 2001 census more than 18% of Enfield’s 275,000 population, classed themselves as black or Asian) though compared to my chosen home, the Commonwealth city of Birmingham, my birth town, certainly the western side of it, seems hardly multicultural, despite an increase in British Cypriots and the recent influx of young Poles, serving in the plethora of new bistros and hotels. That makes all the unsolicited anti-immigrant comments offered to me by complete strangers, mistaking my white face for a badge of shared prejudice, all the more puzzling and depressing.

 

But there are enduring reminders of how it used to be: the local, workmanlike, slightly Australian accent which despite my four decades of separation I soon catch myself “norfing” into; the stalls and trestles (where there has been a weekly market since 1303), around the octagonal market house with its eight teak columns; the pubs, familiar, despite their insensitive renaming (The George, where I did my underage drinking, is inexplicably The Goose); the Victorian fountain on the traffic island where, as an obsessive teenage activist I stood in vigils against Imperialism, Armaments, Selective Education, and – on the morning of James Hanratty’s execution - capital punishment. And the boys from the Grammar School (now, thanks to my sole efforts of course, a Comprehensive, despite clinging pompously to its original name) look just like I did in the 1960s, still graded by their jackets, and their obligatory red-striped ties knotted contemptuously thick and short as a mark of their disdain for uniforms.

 

Here is a shopping street in a suburb which, though it seems more informal than it used to and certainly more affluent, has less character and very little identity beyond its own borders. It is another disappointment. The centre of Birmingham, where I have lived now for 32 years, has been in a constant flux of adaptation and experiment ever since my student days there in the mid-Sixties, replacing ancient blemishes with exciting new ones almost by the month. For Enfield to have remained so unchanged –so unspoiled, in fact- suggests complacency.

 

It is both a shock, then, and a bitter relief to cross the Cambridge Road and head towards that eastern part of the Borough. The cable factory and the Rolling Mills have closed. So have the gas, the soap and the glue works, and big employers such as Pickfords, Ripaults, Ruberoids, Edisons and Bellings, all evocative names from my childhood and from industrial history, have either shut entirely or down-sized. These were where our neighbours cycled to each morning, in their working suits with their white-bread lunches balanced on their handlebars. These were where you used to have a job for life, from apprenticeship to gold watch.

 

No longer. Jobs in manufacturing in Enfield have fallen more than 70% since the end of the 1960s, and they are still falling. There were about 30,000 production workers there in 1991. By the time of the 2001 census that had dropped to less than 19,000 (while white-collar occupations increased by 80% and students over the age of eighteen by 98% in the same period. So much for industry.) Now instead there are monotonous landscapes full of portentously named retail parks (de Mandeville Gate!) and aspirational housing estates styled in every architectural vernacular except the local.

 

What was the Royal Ordnance factory at Enfield Lock on the River Lea, famous for its small arms and motorcycles, is now Island Village with little more than its new-minted street names such as Gunners Drive to remind inhabitants that this had been since 1916 an important place of work for thousands of skilled “lockies”. Very little that is gritty has remained. That has its benefits, of course: cleaner jobs and cleaner air, an improved skyline, smarter homes with “amenities”. Even the toughest streets, once mean, dirty and too dangerous for an undersized boy like me, have been spruced up and are in good heart. But as with everything worth having, something old worth preserving has been sacrificed, most notably the certainty there used to be on these productive streets that despite its dullness Enfield was contributing to “the universe of things”. What could be more essential or more dignified than Manufacturing?

 

*

 

I take a look at Adelaide Close again. Apart from Mr Greenall the turf accountant’s garden at the back, the Green Belt started where our yard ended. Looking south from our front door, there were houses all the way to Kent. A walk, a bus, a train, a tube and I could be demonstrating in Trafalgar Square in less than an hour. We definitely were Londoners and city folk. But heading directly north from us –five minutes walk at the most, pushing a wheelbarrow to one of my father’s allotments - and there was Green Belt and after that countryside all the way to Norfolk and Lincolnshire, and after that the sea.

 

So now I do step north, just to discover what damage has been done to the Green Belt. I have already driven along the Enfield length of the M25 which once was farmland and dense woodland. I have seen how Crews Hill, a country lane with nursery gardens where I – and a bunch of flies - had taken meat every Saturday on a fixed wheel delivery bike, has been first filled with Garden Centres and, more recently by gaudy superstores for Leisure Furniture, Pool & Tub equipment, Pet Food, Aquatic Life and Home Marine supplies. I have read of Tottenham Hotspur’s attempts (with “sweeteners”) to build a £30 million, 56-acre football training centre at Bulls Cross, on land behind the celebrated gardens of Middleton House. It will have nine- foot high mesh fences – and precious few trees.

 

So my hopes for the Enfield Green Belt, already so oppressed elsewhere in the country, are not high. The village of Forty Hill itself, just at an angle to our flat, is not disquieting – though all the changes that there are speak volumes about how work, shopping and travel have altered since I was a boy. Mr Greenall’s lodge and gardens have been replaced by a roundabout and a retirement home, the unambivalently named Bridge House. (No need to wonder where that bridge leads.) The horse and cattle trough has survived, but there is no bus terminus. Where there were seven shops, there are two – a newsagents and the Village Wholefood Store.

 

But as soon as I leave the pavements for the paths of Gough Park on the edge of that glorious two-thirds of the borough which is still not built on, I am returned to childhood and to the closest that these London suburbs have to rural life. John Hill’s early-nineteenth century paintings of the area on display at the local Jacobean mansion, Forty Hall, show a recognisable landscape. The woodlands, once the favoured hunting grounds of kings, have survived. They are more beautiful even, perhaps because the Countryside Conservation Volunteers who manage them these days are doing a better job than the farmers ever could. There are even elms, a rarity.

 

Indeed, I am surprised to recognise so many individual trees from my childhood, both in the Belt and out of it. The magnolia outside the Conservative Association that we Young Guard socialists tried to poison with weed killer just before the 1964 election is flourishing. The horse chestnut at the back of our flat has reached a decent age. There are still a few of the fashionable catalpas or Indian bean trees growing on the verges of the Pilgrim Estate. The cherry at the back of the nearby house that my parents bought when I was 16 is in its final years but still leafy. Even Britain’s oldest surviving Cedar of Lebanon in the grounds of the Hall labours on, dangerously. It is, like so many of us now, hardly strong enough to bear its own weight.

 

I walk down unspoiled paths and over aged stiles for three or four hours – Seven Arches, Tinky Tocks, Hilly Fields, Whitewebbs Park, Maiden’s Bridge. I only encounter one other walker, with his dogs: predictably he tells me that Enfield is going to pot – “too many foreigners” - and that he is fleeing to Devon. But now it has become clear to me that Devon, or any of those thatched counties that I have dreamed of, could never satisfy my need for plainness and excitement all at once. I have been raised within easy reach of the rural and the urban. And in Birmingham I have found a house that provides exactly the same comforts as those I enjoyed in Enfield - close to country, close to town, suburban-pastoral to the rear, inner city at the front. I have what I was raised to value, both streets and fields. 

 

I end up, finally, below the three familiar sentinel sequoias above the allotments where on a clear evening the lights on the radio mast at Alexandra Palace show against the orange glow of London. And there I am able to squeeze through may thorn hedges to look over fencing to what had been my father’s best allotment, with views of countryside and town. It is well-cared for by a proper gardener, just as it always was during my father’s forty year tenure. I half expect to see him, spade in hand.

 

What I do see, though, is a pair of metal stakes at either side of the plot. I held those stakes steady fifty years ago while my father sank them into the ground with a lump hammer. He wanted them as supports for his raspberry canes. And I see that there are still raspberries flourishing exactly as they had. Now there are tears from me again. Here is the happiness that I had counted beyond reach, sentimental, English and suburban to the core. And here –two metal poles - is evidence that I have left my rusty mark.

 

© Jim Crace 2006

 

1979: Hearts of Oak, in 21: Picador authors celebrate 21 years of international writing, London: Pan Books, 1993, pp. 71-79.

This ‘celebration’, published to coincide with Picador’s 21st anniversary, included contributions from Oliver Sacks, Ian McEwan, Clive James and others. Each author was invited to reflect on a single year out of the past 21. In 1979, Jim Crace was working as a freelance journalist when his father was diagnosed with cancer. ‘Hearts of Oak’ is a moving recollection of Charley Crace’s last year. And yet there is very little in the way of direct description of the man, who was obviously a powerful and loving influence on Crace. We are given to understand that deeds, not words, were what mattered to him. The continuity between nature and man, exemplified in the figure of Crace’s father ‘oaking the public land’, planting thousands of trees ‘without any introspection’, is quietly offered as an alternative anchor to sentimentality, religious or otherwise.

From the point of view of literary biography, ‘Hearts of Oak’ may be interesting for the suggestion it contains of a link between Crace’s father’s death and his definitive move from journalism to fiction.

 

I seemed to spend the whole year in the air. I had been complaining to the commissioning editors of the Sunday Telegraph Magazine – with whom I had a freelance ‘retainer’ – that I was tired of home-based journalism. I wanted up; I wanted out; I wanted foreign travel. The pestering paid off. I flew to Montserrat in the Leewards to interview George Martin at his new recording studios, to New York to meet – or fail to meet, as it turned out – the singer Debbie Harry of Blondie, to California to drive Pacific Highway One for a travel piece, to the metal fortresses of Piper and Forties to report on disaster control in the North Sea oilfields. I found myself – on the magazine’s behalf – ‘rescued from drowning’ off the Lizard in Cornwall by a Wessex 5 helicopter. The unnamed ‘High Wire Hero’ in the four-page colour spread swinging from a 300-foot winch-line above a stroppy sea was me, courageous for a fee, reckless on expenses.

But most of the spring of 1979 - that spring which closed so cheerlessly on May 3rd with Thatcher, newly elected on the steps of Number Ten, predicting ‘harmony and hope’ – was taken up by two long-winded journalistic tasks. One was a report on Britain's ‘top surgeons’; the other involved more flights than I had pestered for. I was asked to investigate and test for the magazine the variable passenger services of Britain’s ‘third level’ commuter airlines, the modest independent short-haul island-hoppers, the cost-cutters, the shove-’em-in-and-slam-the-door sky’s-the-limit fly-by-nights, all with flights as divorced from intercontinental jet travel as a bike is from a Bentley. I sped between airfields and operating theatres like some self-locating donor organ. At Derbyshire Royal Infirmary, neurosurgeon and aerobatics pilot John Firth kitted me out in sterile cap, gown, mask and wellies and ushered me into an operating theatre to inspect ‘the plumbing’ of a gaping cranium. ‘Don’t admit you’re a journalist,’ he said. ‘If anybody asks, say you’re an aerobatics friend.’ Someone did ask, of course. I extemporised the pleasure of doing loops and dives in my Pitts Special. I’d been airborne enough that spring to play the pilot with careless ease.

It was not a time that I was glad to be so close to surgeons. Charley Crace, my dad, had learned that the relentless ulcer which had plagued him for a year was liver cancer. We walked one afternoon in early March to his allotment overlooking the grounds of Forty Hall in north London and then into Gough Woods to see what birds were there. He was slow already. His scalp was patchy with alopecia. His abdomen was bloated and tender. His pockets as usual were full of acorns. We heeled them into the ground in hedgerows where elm disease had destroyed the trees. We were oaking the landscape. Dad had always planted acorns, even before elm disease. It was not a mission. He heeled them in without any introspection. The sports club where he had been groundsman had – still has – a stockade of oaks, some more than thirty years old by then, from acorns which dad had dropped or thrown. The Essex, Middlesex, Hertfordshire borders where he had walked for years can thank him for a thousand trees.

We hardly mentioned illness. We looked for birds – and saw a pair of woodcock – and talked about the news that day that the Liverpool grave-diggers had called off the strike that had prevented so many burials during Jim Callaghan’s Winter of Discontent. Dad was not a sentimentalist. He wouldn’t want his corpse to cross a picket line. But as a Labour Party member he acknowledged the electoral damage that would be caused by the unburied dead, and the uncollected rubbish in the streets, the unheated schools, the strike-hit hospitals. The Tories were already 20 per cent ahead in the opinion polls – but we were optimists, expecting only socialism and cancer cures. I kept a good, strong, orange acorn for myself. I did not heel it in, but put it in my anorak to dry. A worry bead for Dad. I only had to finger it each day and Dad would soon be well. Except the acorn was forgotten, never touched or rubbed until it was too late. And by then, of course, the acorn had been lost.

In the following days, not depressed at all, I flew from Plymouth to Jersey in a Twin Otter, from Manston to Brussels in a Piper Chieftain, from Alderney to Shoreham in an Islander, from Glasgow to Tiree in a Trilander. I tested the world’s shortest scheduled service – between Westray and Papa Westray in the Orkneys, a 90-second flight over a distance shorter than Heathrow’s runway. I landed on Barra’s tidal sand in the Hebrides. It’s safe to land when the lady in the tea hut can see the paddling seagulls’ legs.

Airlines opened and closed by the day. Air Wales – running out of Cardiff to Chester – folded the moment I booked my seat. Air Westward was grounded hours before I was due to take its flight from Exeter to Glasgow. But, the following week, Air Kent was taxi-ing for take-off on its first flight, for Rotterdam – and I was there, aboard the ten-seater Port of Ramsgate, depressed and for the first time in my life fearful in the air. My surgeons research had led me to a pioneer in liver transplants, Professor Roy Calne of Addenbrooke’s in Cambridge, and to the plain-speaking medical journalist Donald Gould. I mentioned to both a patient of my acquaintance, a Londoner of sixty-seven, a bird-watcher, a socialist, a planter of trees, whose ulcer had turned out to be a cancer of the liver. ‘His doctors say they’ll give him drugs to shrink the tumour,’ I said, seeking confirmation for our optimism. Professor Calne, the liver expert, knew of no such procedures. And Donald Gould? He said, ‘Nonsense. The doctors are kidding the patient because they know he’ll die. A liver tumour can’t be shrunk.’ Except he was more blunt than that. I contemplated my father’s death at low altitudes above a choppy sea. I’d never been so airborne in my life.

At Whitsun we were camping in Cornwall in a field above the Logan Rock at Treen when the message came – via the village shop – that Dad was dying and that I should hurry to London. He could not walk or talk. We fixed him up with a sheepskin, to ease his bed sores, and a bedside bell so that he could call for help. The bell went all night long. I had to lift his penis into a grey cardboard bottle so that he could try – and fail – to urinate. I had to shave his face. I had to scrape the anchovies of damp wax from his blocked ears – just as he had done for me so many times when I was a child.

On Sunday June 3rd he seemed to rally. We carried him as best we could into the garden so that he could feel the sun, but this resurrection was short-lived. He soon was unconscious, only waking for the pain. On the Tuesday he went into a local hospital and there, in the small hours of the Wednesday morning, he died, alone. He did not want a funeral service. He didn’t care for priests or prayers or hymns. No flowers. No grief. Immediate family only. He did not want his ashes scattered anywhere. We let the crematorium dispose of him, and spent his wake disposing of his papers and his clothes. His allotment trousers were too old for Oxfam. I put them in the bin, but searched the pockets first. I found his wooden-handled pruning knife (which I still have and use) and half a dozen acorns. One day I’d find the proper place to heel them in. Instead of tears I shed my first piece of fiction for many years: a monologue by a woman whose father is dying called ‘Seven Ages’. It was published by Craig Raine in Quarto and then broadcast on Radio 3, and marked the start of my migration from journalism to fiction. The last lines were: ‘If Father goes, then what? Who is there left? Who is next in line? A foolish idea comes into my mind as I sit at the end of his bed: to turn my head and have him scrape the wax from my ear. More and more I am victim to such unexpected sentiments. Of course, I keep them to myself. This is no time for self-pity – though, sometimes, I wonder what has become of my good fortune.’ That was the year we swapped Thatcher for my Dad.

In late December I was in the air again. I flew up to Skye from Glasgow in a draughty, baby-Fiat of an aircraft, with bird-lime burns in its paintwork, to interview Ian Anderson of the rock group Jethro Tull. In his new incarnation as Laird of Straithaird, he was replanting the profits of his flute back into 15,300 acres of his virtually treeless Skye estate. I had Dad’s acorns in my coat – and was still looking for some sentimental place to bury them. It occurred to me that I should plant them there and then, on Skye. But this was private property, and Dad had always oaked the public land.

I took the flight back south. ‘We’ve made rather a speciality of taking writers back home,’ the pilot said, once he’d learned my occupation. ‘We run a Coffin Charter. We take the writers home to be buried. We took Compton MacKenzie back to Barra. And we also took Eric Linklater back to Orkney.’ It was a fearful journey with 35-knot headwinds labouring against the plane, its wings hardly able to locate soft passage in the dusk. I am more introspective – and more theatrical – than Dad ever was. I dropped his acorns somewhere over Argyll, but the wind might have scattered them in Orkney and beyond. We made the slowest progress one can make by air and, robbed of acorns, bereft of my good fortune, I feared that I would never reach the ground. Physically I did, an hour overdue. But otherwise, I never touched the ground again, not solidly, not after 1979. Since then I seem to spend the whole time in the air, gliding in the gusty thermals of my father’s death. There is no gravestone, no ashy earth, to take a bearing from. But there are oaks.

(c) Jim Crace 1993

 Click here to read ‘Seven Ages’, the story mentioned above that ‘marked the start of [Crace’s] migration from journalism to fiction’.

 

Selected journalism

1. Chernobyl comes to Paradise, a report on the impact of radioactive fallout from Chernobyl on hill farmers in Wales

2. The knotweed menace, a survey of the damage wrought on Birmingham’s green spaces by this invasive plant

3. Tide and prejudice, a personal account of the land and seascapes that have meant most to Jim Crace

4. Waiting for a Miracle, a report from Cambodia for Médecins Sans Frontières

 

1. Chernobyl comes to Paradise

Sunday Times Magazine, March 15, 1987

On 26 April 1986, the worst nuclear power accident in history occurred at Chernobyl in the former USSR (now Ukraine) when disregard for safety procedures led to explosions and a fireball which blew the steel and concrete lid off reactor 4. The accident killed more than 30 people immediately; some 135,00 people were evacuated from the surrounding area. For years the fallout continued to kill trees and animals, contaminate crops, and cause illness and deformity in people. The local ecosystem was most profoundly affected, but the impact of Chernobyl was felt across the entire northern hemisphere. A year after the accident, Jim Crace reported on the plight of Welsh hill farmers in the aftermath of Chernobyl, and on their fears that a local power station might prove even more of a menace.

‘This was my last piece of journalism,’ Jim Crace recalls, ‘written between the hardback and paperback publication of Continent and showing a favourite theme of my novels: landscape, and a community under pressure.’ The original article was accompanied by evocative black-and-white photographs by Peter Marlow.

Somebody – not a local Welshman – has scratched the word PARADISE on a car-park slate by the Celyn reservoir, in the Snowdonia National Park. Few of the many outsiders who pause for a while on the lake shore as they drive seawards towards holidays in Porthmadog or Dolgellau would argue with such a judgement. Here are the glistening waters, the multi-tinted mountains of one of Britain’s greatest landscapes. But listen to the local Jeremiahs. For them – particularly since the rains of early may last year – the land is tainted, the paradise lost.

‘When I was at school in the valley there were 65 pupils, and the chapel was full every Sunday night,’ says 73-year-old Robyn Jones who, together with his son, Elfin, farms 428 acres on the Ty-nant stream above the lake. ‘Though we took our water from the stream in a kettle, we could make the best cup of tea you ever drank, that’s for sure.’ He points to the scattered outcrops of brick, the makeshift sheepfolds, which punctuate the hillsides. Each was once a family home. ‘But now, it’s all gone or it’s under water,’ he says. ‘They flooded the valley and its 18 farms in 1963 to provide free water to Liverpool from the poor country of Meirionydd. The chapel’s closed; the school’s gone; and there’s pollution in our hills. The reservoir was stocked with 60,000 brown trout some years ago. But I haven’t seen a brownie down there for ages. Not a single one. All dead. Acid rain. There’s no telling what the rain might bring these days or the damage it might do.’

Robyn Jones looks heavenwards with transparent dismay. Behind him, in a stone outhouse, officials from the Welsh office are running a hand-held scintillation meter – which measures radioactivity – over the rumps of Ty-nant lambs. All 54 are judged to be ‘clean’. A certificate is issued and the lambs can now go to Ruthin market for slaughter. ‘Not before time,’ says Elfin Jones. It is seven months to the day since Chernobyl came to Wales.

***

It was on Friday May 2 that the cloudborne remnants from the explosion of reactor number 4 in the Chernobyl nuclear power station began to fall as rain over Snowdonia. On April 30, four days after the accident, the weathermen predicted that south-westerly winds cutting across the North Sea would confine radioactive fallout to Poland and Scandinavia. And, according to Britian’s National Radiological Protection Board, ‘if anything did come our way, it would be so diluted as to be effectively irrelevant’.

The weathermen were wrong. The winds changed. And seven days after Chernobyl the clouds burst over the Celyn reservoir and the hillsides of North Wales and Cumbria. The weekend of rain deposited a pot-pourri of over 30 nuclear contaminants on the two National Parks. Iodine 131 – the most immediate and deadly of the isotopes – had, with a half-life of under nine days, largely decayed during its progress over northern Europe. What did remain in the Welsh rain, however (at levels which would add 15 per cent to the yearly human dosage of background radiation) were the caesiums 134 and 137. Once ingested, they are easily dissolved and distributed throughout the body. Nobody is certain what human damage they can cause.

The locals thought little of it, particularly when the Secretary of State for the Environment, Kenneth Baker, told the House of Commons on the following Tuesday that radioactivity was ‘nowhere near the levels at which there is any hazard to health’. The rains of early May were forgotten and the business of lambing got underway.

And then, on June 20, came the news that has disrupted and dismayed the farming community of North Wales ever since. Michael Jopling, the minister of Agriculture, reported to the Commons that ‘the monitoring of young unfinished lambs not yet ready for market in certain areas of Cumbria and North Wales indicates higher levels of radio-caesium than in the rest of the country’. The figures were rather more alarming than the minister was prepared to admit. Random sampling of sheep muscle and liver in Gwynedd had revealed levels of caesiums up to 4216 becquerels per kilogram. The ‘action level’ for lamb or mutton (rather than a safety or danger level) had been established by British governments as 1000bqs/kg. In Sweden the level had been set at a more cautious 300bqs/kg.

The half-life of caesium 137, the predominant isotope found in the samples, was known to be approximately 30 years. But the assumption was that caesium 137 in a living body would be naturally excreted. Ninety days was the more conservative estimate. However, the farmers of Wales were happy to believe the whisper from Whitehall that their sheep would be ‘clean’ within 30 days. In the meantime, the Ministry of Agriculture had little choice but to prevent more Welsh lamb from entering the food chain. There would be, therefore, a ban on the movement and slaughter of sheep within parts of Snowdonia (and Cumbria) for 21 days. Robyn Jones’s flocks, together with those of 5100 other Welsh farmers with holdings from Holy Island in the west to Lake Vyrnwy in the south to Rhyl on the northern coast, were to be as confined and inert as camels in a safari park.

***

The year 1986 had not been a good one for Welsh hill farmers. The droughts of the previous summer and an unusually severe winter had delayed the spring growth of both lambs and grazing. Despite a system of ‘hill compensatory allowances’ and price guarantees, many of the smaller holders described themselves as ‘under pressure’.

‘We’re in the survival business,’ says Bernard Malethan who, with the help of his wife Glenys, ‘Wyn the YTS’, and a shed of ageing machinery, breeds from 500 hardy pure-bred Welsh mountain ewes on poor-quality land to the south of Colwyn Bay. ‘The squeeze is on. The banks are getting jittery. Land prices are tumbling. There is no wealth in these farms. We’re not complaining. Our community is close-knit, slightly isolated, yet going well. But life is not easy for us as it might be for some farmers in the Home Counties.’ For him and his colleagues the working vehicle is more likely to be a J-registered Land Rover or a converted Post Office van than the newish Range Rover usually associated with farming life. Their homes are mostly plain, with few signs of conspicuous consumption, though enriched by the smells of solid fuel stoves and drying waterproofs, and by scenery of such magnificence that there is hardly a day in the year when the view from their windows is not punctuated by the red and blue cagoules of the tourists who count the cynefins (or sheep-walks) as an extension of the public domain.

‘You can’t eat scenery and you can’t bank fresh air,’ say the farmers; yet the benefits of landscape and culture are clearly powerful inducements to remain in the hills. It is a land of stone walls, wind and (most of all) a rain which echoes the curiously watery cadences of the Welsh tongue. Here are found the only two constituencies with Plaid Cymru MPs. Even though it is generally English voices that are heard behind the counters of shops and hotels or living off such ‘fireside talents’ as pottery and candlestick making, the children of these newcomers are ‘Welsh within a year’. They attend local schools where everything from physics to French is taught in ‘the language of heaven’.

‘I’m embarrassed by city friends who say, "My God, you’ve got a hard life!"’ says John Hooson, who farms at Pentrefoelas. ‘Compared to what? Compared to people in London, living under the threat of redundancy and travelling to and from work for two hours on the train each day?’ How does that measure up, he wonders, against his neighbourhood, his lifestyle? There was one crime last year in Pentrefoelas, the theft of a goose. The resident policeman – despite 18 road accidents on the A5 and the 22,000 holiday-makers who visited the village’s public lavatory on one particularly busy August weekend – had so little to do that he was moved elsewhere.

It is true that life is not often leisurely. There is the routine of husbandry, the cycle of seasonal appointments, lambing, ditching, hedging, shearing, cutting silage, working dogs, maintaining ancient stone walls against the pressure of wind, ramblers and (not infrequently in North Wales) the occasional earth tremor. But farmers talk of being ‘woven into the landscape’, of having ‘soil in their blood’. ‘I would not claim to be downtrodden,’ says John Hooson. ‘Our life is tough. We grapple with the elements, single handed. But we have chosen to stay. We are volunteers.’

***

John and Nesta Hooson were in Venice when the restrictions were imposed. John spotted a map of Wales in a British newspaper with a shaded area covering Pentrefoelas. He returned to Wales expecting a short-lived disruption. He was to be disappointed. After three weeks the restrictions were reimposed. Caesium levels in lambs were not dropping as predicted. They were rising. Readings of more than 4100bqs/kg were to be recorded in Meironydd, Aberconwy, and Montgomery in mid-September, three months after the end of the supposed half-life of caesium in live sheep.

‘By mid-July we had begun to get nervous,’ says Hooson, who farms in the traditional hafod and hendre (upland and lowland) style, with 500 acres of the poorest, grade five, land around his 12th-century farmhouse, Plas Iolyn. ‘Still, compare to the Bhopal disaster, this was a mere hiccup. But how did officialdom cope? They were running about like chickens with their heads cut off.’

He presents a picture of husbandry during a normal year with spring lambs progressing from birth to marketplace on a carefully modulated ‘conveyor belt’. The farmer is constantly ‘removing mouths’. The lambs that are mature in June are sold, and grazing is freed for the smaller lambs to reach maturity in July. ‘Now we couldn’t move sheep off our land,’ says Hooson. What happens in these circumstances? ‘The mature lamb is competing with its siblings for food. It loses bloom. It deteriorates like an overripe fruit and its value in the marketplace drops. Your land is grazed into the ground and that includes land that was earmarked as hay and silage for the winter. You’ve got rogue tups on your hands. They’re randy and running free, working the fat off their backs, causing a nuisance. You’ve had to spend extra money on dipping and dosing for fluke and worm. You’ve told your bank manager that the overdraft is soon to come down. Now, suddenly, you can’t sell lambs. You have no cash flow. And there’s nothing you can do about it.’ Except protest.

***

On Wednesday, September 3, the small and normally quiescent town of Llanwrst in Aberconwy became the unlikely setting for a near riot. In late August, after two months of forced internment for the flocks in the restricted areas, a ‘mark and release’ scheme had been introduced. ‘Chernobyl specials’ or ‘blues’, as the lambs became known, could now be sold to farmers outside the restricted areas. But they could not be slaughtered until all the farms in North Wales had been declared ‘clean’. The blues were to be shorn and marked with a 5in stripe on their snouts and foreheads. The ministry provided paint: swimming pool blue, a job lot left over, according to wags, from the private swimming pools of top civil servants in the Home Counties.

Inevitably the blues, which struck an odd, punkish note as they were driven to the auction pens, commanded a poor price, sometimes as low as £1 a head. The lowland farmers who bought them were taking a gamble. If controls were lifted quickly they could make a huge profit. If restrictions persisted, the maintenance of their blues throughout the winter might damage their farms and bank balances irrevocably. For the restricted farmers there was compensation. But any such schemes which resulted from what the Secretary of State for Wales, Nicholas Edwards, describes as these ‘unprecedented problems’, would ‘inevitably…involve a measure of rough justice’.

By early September, despite the minister’s evident pragmatism, there was widespread dissatisfaction. The farmers wanted the ‘averaging’ method of calculating market losses changed – it enriched farmers selling unfinished lambs at the expense of those whose early lambs had become overfat following slaughter restrictions. They also wanted compensation not only on the low prices that their lambs and breeding ewes were fetching in the market, but also on the ‘consequential losses’, the costs of holding unfinished lambs on the farm.

‘The farmers might have been chatting like nuclear scientists about becquerels and half-lives,’ says John Hooson. ‘They might have cheered to the rafters any farmer who made an emotional speech about the dangers of radiation for our children’s children. But it was fear of going bust, of losing out on compensation, and not caesium 137 that kept our passions flaming.’

And so it was that, on the evening of September 3, 300 or so irate farmers gathered outside the Eagles Hotel at Llanwrst to ‘welcome’ Martin Bevan, an assistant secretary in the Welsh office. John Hooson, who was among the official delegates inside the hotel, told Martin Bevan, ‘This is a moderate meeting. If things don’t improve in the next few days, it will not be so moderate. Feelings are running very high.’ Outside, moderation was giving way to exasperation.

‘If our problems had occurred for wealthy Englishmen in Surrey they would have been sorted out in a fortnight,’ says Bernard Malethan. ‘But this isn’t Surrey. This is some native backwater. We’d co-operated with the restrictions, we’d talked and been polite and got nowhere. We’d been ignored. Because the rain had fallen on the most Welsh area of Wales, our battle had been fought in Welsh. It had dominated the Welsh media. But the English papers weren’t interested. The public beyond Wales didn’t know what was going on. Diplomacy had failed. I thought, those who shout loudest get the attention. And so I shouted, "Let’s go in!"’

The farmers stormed into the hotel ballroom where the meeting was being held. Chairs were banged on tables. Coins were thrown. Welsh oaths were aired. And Martin Bevan, legs ‘visibly quivering at the knees’, was ‘escorted’ to the telephone to cries of, ‘We want the organ grinder, not the bloody monkey.’ ‘Mr Bevan handled himself perfectly,’ says Bernard Malethan, ‘but he could see we wouldn’t let our hostage go until he had extracted a promise from Nicholas Edwards to meet the farmers.’

Already the mythology of the Welsh hills is that the rapid introduction of new schemes for market losses and ‘direct additional expenses’ was directly due to ‘the mob at Llanwrst’. ‘We’re more politically alive than the hill farmers in Cumbria, Exmoor and the Pennines,’ comments John Hooson drily. ‘We are noisy and we are stubborn – there is no doubt about that.’

***

The ‘organ grinder’, as minister Nicholas Edwards had been called, was sympathetic to the ‘noises’ coming out of Snowdonia. He himself lives in a valley in Pembrokeshire with Welsh hill farmers as neighbours. But the events of Chernobyl were unprecedented. ‘It wasn’t long before we realised that, certainly on the high ground, we had a problem that would run on at least till the end of the year,’ he says. ‘Our over-riding considerations were to prevent the meat entering the markets and the food chain and to maintain customer confidence in the reputation of the product.’

‘When the restrictions were first imposed, I thought it would be the finish of the sheep industry in Wales for 10 years at least,’ says Richard Jones, a livestock auctioneer. The early indications were that the consumers would follow the Greek model, where the market totally collapsed (and has yet to recover). The price of fat lambs dropped by up to a quarter as major customers cancelled orders. Rumours abounded: the man in Dolgellau who demanded a refund for his leg of lamb; the butcher in Shrewsbury who boasted, ‘No Welsh lamb here!’ Farmers gathered at the Royal Hotel in Caernarfon to dine on ‘lamb, the flavour of Wales’ for the television cameras. ‘If this doesn’t work,’ said one, ‘our sheep will be good for only fish fingers and pork pies.’ But it soon became clear that their fears were largely unfounded. ‘The market impact was unexpectedly small,’ says Nicholas Edwards. By late summer the distinctive dragon flag of Welsh lamb was once again flying in British shops.

***

Seven May lambs managed to escape the flock – and the foxes – on Trebor Roberts’s hill, the Aran Fawddwi, which rises just short of 3000ft to the west of Dolgellau. It was not until late November that he finally brought them down to the pasture land which surrounds Esgair Gawr, the farmhouse in which his wife, Annwen, was born and which Trebor had tenanted and then owned for over 20 years. On December 5, sporting the last of the government’s blue paint on their foreheads, they were put to auction at the livestock market in Dolgellau.

In a normal year – and with lambs of this quality and weight – he would have expected to have made, say, £26 for each animal. In the end, despite the auctioneer’s exhortations (’You’ve got a bonus here – a dab of blue paint’), the seven sheep are knocked down to £14 a head. ‘Not bad, considering,’ says Trebor Roberts as he passes 50p ‘luck money’ to the buyer, Wellan Beamond from Newtown in mid-Wales. The coin adds a sentimental touch to the transaction – but Trebor Roberts is a sentimental man when it comes to sheep. He presents them as wise, prescient and home-loving. ‘That’s something to spit on,’ he comments, though Mr Beamond has hopes for a greater profit than 50p. It’s a gamble – but he already has 300 blues. In April they could make him £30 a head.

For Trebor Roberts the departure of his last seven lambs marks the end of his most worrying year: his land ‘contaminated’, his sheep ‘dirty’, their lambs ‘blighted’.

‘We live poor and we die rich in hill farming,’ he says. ‘All my spare cash is tied up in stock and land. But I’m not only worried about money and sheep. I’m worried about the people of Wales. That dark cloud has been hanging over our heads, too. I know of a farmer in the Bala area. They went to monitor his sheep with a Geiger counter and monitored him first in order to discover the background radiation. And he was higher than the sheep. Now that’s a worry.’ The canteen at the market in Dolgellau is full of such stories. The belief most vehemently held is that the major cause for the contamination is not only Chernobyl but also the ageing Magnox nuclear power station which has operated since 1965 on Trawsfynydd Lake near Ffestiniog.

Three of four times a week a goods train crosses the farm at Teilau Bach near Blaenau. The farmer and his mother, Heddwyn and Olwyn Hughes, remember ‘happier, safer days’ when GWR steam locomotives carried holiday-makers to Bala. Then there was a halt on their land where locals could board the train for shopping expeditions or trips to school. Now the only traffic comes from the nuclear power station. The cargo of drums and 50-ton flasks contains industrial trash and spent fuel contaminated with radioactivity.

For Heddwyn Hughes the railway is ‘a death line’, threatening his health, his income, his peace of mind. Every train has come to represent a cocktail of worries and pressures. Not only Chernobyl, but the overdraft, the weather, the falling value of land. ‘The CEGB says that the power station is perfectly safe,’ he says. ‘But people feel that there is contamination from Trawsfynydd. It’s like a car. The filth has to go somewhere. Why do we need it when all around we have so much power in the wind and the water? We have lived off these mountains for generations and now, thanks to Chernobyl and Trawsfynydd, our land has become dirty.’

Heddwyn Hughes is not alone. Throughout the valleys and hill farms of Snowdonia there is an emotive chorus of cynicism and mistrust about the local nuclear power station. Farmers and their wives point towards the square and functional building at Trawsfynydd, at the grey steam which rises from it, at the humming pylons. Apart from the slate quarries at Llechwedd, it is the ugliest site in Snowdonia.

‘Most of the farmers would like Trawsfynydd to close right now,’ says Myfanwy Evans. She and her husband, John, farm 700 acres up-valley from Trebor Roberts. Her sister dies in 1964 from leukaemia and she wonders whether their land was ‘contaminated long before Chernobyl’. ‘I would be a strange mother,’ she says, ‘if sometimes, tucking my children up in bed, I didn’t wonder whether Trawsfynydd is as safe as they claim.’

There are wild rumours of dangerously irradiated sulphur emissions from the station’s smoke stack, of a corridor of unexplained cancers along the railway, of a major leak into Trawsfynydd Lake, even of offices in concrete bunkers and evacuation villas in Spain for Trawsfynydd top brass. None can be substantiated. But local ‘alarmists’, as they are described by station manager Donald Doo, have ‘found courage in Chernobyl’ and are confusing the debate with misleading information.

Yet research from the Ministry of Agriculture, Fisheries and Food showed abnormal levels of caesium in Trawsfynydd waters (which are used to cool the reactors) before Chernobyl. Their Aquatic Environment Monitoring Report of 1985 recorded caesium levels in Trawsfynydd lake mud of 7800 becquerels per kilogram and in lake shore peat of 1500bqs/kg (compared with normal background radiation of less than 300bqs/kg). Stewart Boyle, national energy campaigner with Friends of the Earth, comments: ‘There is a fish farm in the lake, not very far from the power station’s discharge pipe. How contaminated are the trout? The levels of radioactivity may, from Trawsfynydd, represent a statistically low risk for the people of North Wales. But how critical will it be, say, for a fisherman who is on that lake regularly and eats some of that fish?’

‘I have never hesitated to eat trout from the lake,’ counters Mike Williams, the station health physicist. ‘In order to get any radiation effect from the power station you’d have to stand still in one spot, eating fish, for a year. But nobody does that, and nobody consumes mud. So the effects are infinitesimally small.’ So certain is he of the comparatively low levels of contamination that he ate more Welsh lamb after Chernobyl, not less. The falling price allowed him to stock his freezer. ‘Let’s keep this in proportion,’ he says. ‘Brazil nuts have 300bqs/kg in them naturally – nothing to do with nuclear power, nothing to do with Chernobyl. And I can bring you a piece of stone from Cornwall that will have a natural radiation level far higher than anything we have round here.’ (Recent reports have shown 20,000 households in the West Country to be vulnerable to the seepage of alarmingly high levels of the naturally-occurring radioactive gas radon, which is believed to increase susceptibility to respiratory cancers.)

One thing is certain, the Chernobyl accident – together with the likelihood that the plant will be replaced by a new pressurised water reactor after 1995 – has required the incumbents at Trawsfynydd to make a more open and informative stand within the community. A ‘layman’s guide to emergency procedures’ is to be distributed in Snowdonia. ‘In the inconceivable event that an emergency does occur, we want Mrs Owen or Mrs Jones to know at what stage to pack the children in the car and set off,’ says Donald Doo. ‘Yet there is no need for worry.’ Any contamination is ‘negligible’, ‘insignificant’, with ‘nil effects on the environment’.

He lists the employment record of Trawsfynydd – 600 jobs in an area where 19 per cent of the population are out of work, the railway line kept open by the power station, the local roads built at CEGB expense. ‘The Welshman complains that his sons and daughters leave the valleys. We offer jobs and we keep their children here. They should look on us not with fear but with fondness.’ His tone of voice suggests it is a cruel and undeserved irony that an environment and a lifestyle so disrupted by events at a nuclear power station 1400 miles away should have, on its doorstep, a nuclear plant of its own, an easy scapegoat for all the woes and resentments of the farmer. ‘I’ve even been blamed for the failings of the lamb compensation schemes,’ he says. ‘That’s the confusion that Chernobyl has caused.’

***

And when will it end? At the end of January this year 100,000 sheep in 315 holdings in upland Gwynedd were still under ‘farm arrest’ (compared with the original 2 million sheep and 5100 holdings). Apricot paint had replaced swimming pool blue for those sheep which had failed a live monitoring test. The government’s ‘Cherno-bill’ for losses under the various compensation schemes had exceeded £2.1 million.

The hauliers, the slaughtermen, the livestock auctioneers, the farmers who had slipped through the net of schemes were counting the cost of an expensive and depressing year. ‘It has been a disaster,’ says Richard Jones, the auctioneer whose company lost in excess of £3000 in three months because of low commission on Chernobyl specials. ‘What the government should have done was slaughter all the blues and send them off. To Russia. With love.’

The Welsh hill farmers are now preparing for this year’s lambs with a sense of foreboding. ‘The idea that the caesium would simply pass through the sheep and just get washed away has proved not to be correct,’ says Professor John Owen, of University College, Bangor. ‘There has been some reabsorption of caesium from the soil by vegetation.’ His Department of Agriculture placed ‘clean sheep’ on the hills above Bangor during October. After four weeks of grazing they registered caesium levels in excess of 3000bqs/kg.

‘Only a fool would be blasé about what might happen in the next few months,’ he says. ‘There is likely to be some recontamination of sheep on the mountain and, possibly, a reimposition of restrictions during the summer.’ And then what colour will we paint our sheep? Ask our farmers. Red for danger. Black for death. The more imaginative among them – fuelled by press pictures of genetically deformed post-Chernobyl rabbits in Finland and the virtual breeding failure of migratory swans from eastern Europe – have steeled themselves against the possibility of malformed lambs. Ministry scientists have given repeated assurances that (to quote Dr John Curtis) ‘there can be no genetic side effect as a result of Chernobyl fallout’. But the fears have proven to be as enduring and resistant as the caesium itself. What is the half-life of a rumour in an environment where the unthinkable has already occurred?

‘Lambing can be cold and hard work,’ says Myfanwy Evans, ‘but it can be a pleasure, too, when everything is going well. We call it the local Spring Handicap Chase. You just gallop along, 24 hours a day, and get the lambs born. But I certainly don’t want to be there alone at two or three in the morning and pulling out a deformed lamb.’

‘There is no safe level of increase in radiation,’ warns Professor Owen. ‘All the evidence suggests that genetic damage from radiation increases linearly and does not rely on passing a certain arbitrary threshold such as 1000bqs/kg. Any increase will cause extra deaths or genetic defects.’ Experts have calculated that ‘some tens’ of people in Britain will die within a few decades of Chernobyl radiation. Professor Owen is reluctant to be too specific about human damage, but he is certain that, following the rains of May, ‘some local mothers have good cause to believe that their families did eat material above levels that would normally be allowed’.

With sheep he is less circumspect. ‘You would be looking for malformation in lambs,’ he says. ‘Aborted lambs. An increase in the abnormalities that occur already – headless lambs, legless lambs, various deformations of the jaw. Embryos might simply fail to develop. Or there might be a slight mutation which does not show up until the second or third generation. It is possible that it might be several years before the worst effects of Chernobyl will present themselves.’

***

Trebor Roberts still walks his hill and inspects his livestock with the calm and contentment of a man at peace with the landscape. His son, Emlyn, who is at agricultural college in Aberystwyth, will inherit the farm and, no doubt, his father’s ornate ramhorn and hazel crook. ‘Personally I feel that my task is to leave theland in a better state than I found it,’ he says. ‘Can I claim to have done that, after Chernobyl?’ He translates the words of a Welsh hymn into English: ‘Our fathers are buried here. And our children will follow us.’ In the circumstances it is a sentiment of such ironic power that Trebor Roberts is uncertain whether his words sound a note of warning or of triumph over adversity.

© Jim Crace 1987 

2. The knotweed menace

Birmingham 13, October 1992

In this article, Crace, in correspondent mode for a local magazine, documents another aspect of the changing landscape. Japanese knotweed, ruefully referred to by many gardeners as ‘the plant that ate the west’, continues its depredations to the present day. The article was signed ‘J.C.’.

Moseley residents are fortunate in having a wide choice and variety of park and riverside walks within easy reach. None of them, though, is exempt from the invasive damage of non-native plants and trees.

Rangers at Cannon Hill have recently completed the felling of the huge - and non-native - sycamores in the Seven Springs woodland (behind Elizabeth Road). Their dense canopies and their ubiquitous seedlings had virtually eradicated most of the smaller species which normally proliferate in the undergrowth of British woodlands. Now the rangers are facing a set of more complicated problems.

The Himalayan balsam has already shouldered out much of its bankside competition on the River rea from the St John’s Road bridge in Cannon Hill Park as far as Fordhouse Lane in Stirchley. At least the balsam’s large pink flowers are abundant and attractive in mid-summer - and it is shallow rooting, limited to the riverside and relatively easy to control.

Not so the Japanese knotweed, which is threatening to penetrate and damage many of the open spaces around Moseley. Imagine a plant with the tenacity of ground elder, the virility of bindweed, the cussedness of couch grass and the physical height and stamina of bamboo and you have some idea of Japanese knotweed and the threat it poses.

The plant was introduced in the last century by estate gardeners as an exotic polygonum suitable for shaded or infertile patches. The purple-to-red stems are attractive in spring and autumn, and there are loops of creamy flowers from July to October. Attractive, but profligate too, with foliage which excludes all undergrowth and deep roots which choke almost everything but large trees. The Japanese knotweed can not only reproduce from seed but also from root growth. It can even regenerate from a scrap of stem or foliage, and with such proficiency that half an inch trapped in the tread of a walking shoe and shed elsewhere can establish itself as a nine-foot-high shrub within a year.

The knotweed – or Japanese bamboo, as it is also known – is already flourishing throughout the formal gardens of Cannon Hill. The largest patch exists in what was varied undergrowth between the windmill and the Rea. This area was cleared by strimmer in July but each decapitated plant had reappeared within the month. It virtually controls the island in the middle of the wildfowl breeding pond. And there are well-established patches at the back of MAC, in the daffodil glade beyond the poppy meadow, at the edges of allotments on the Holders Lane site, and – most recently – in the newly planted forest sections of Seven Springs. The Cole Valley, too, is risking its variety to the knotweed, which is growing, in isolated clumps, from the Brickworks in Sparkhill to the Scriber’s Lane ford in Yardley Wood. There are also, sadly, new infestations in the unique habitat of the Moseley Bog, notably near both entrance slopes from Wake Green Playing Fields.

Even Moseley Private Park, for all its exclusivity, has not escaped the knotweed. It is well-established on the dell side of the lake and at the Salisbury Road entrance. Several homes in Salisbury Road already have small outbreaks in their gardens.

It is easy to remove surface plants by snapping off the stems or by using strong foliage killers such as Tumbleweed. But it is not possible to dig out the roots. They are too deep and too determined. No-one has yet devised a method of controlling the Japanese knotweed. In the meantime – and too late for Moseley – it has been declared a banned species, illegal to plant, sell or propagate.

© Jim Crace 1992

 

3. Tide and prejudice

Condé Nast Traveller (1999)

This engaging article, written to coincide with the publication of Being Dead, combines reminiscences of the desert with some superb evocations of coastal landscapes. Useful background for those interested in Crace’s life.

A favorite family photograph: it is June 1988 at the Balsall Heath Carnival in landlocked Birmingham. My daughter, Lauren, then about two years old, is perched on my arm, clutching the end of the camera cable to ‘self-expose’ the portrait. I am standing on a Moroccan woven rug. Behind us, painted on the backdrop, is a beach with crabs, a childish undulating sea, two yachts, and a rudimentary steamship. Above our heads, there is a flapping streamer with the words ‘BIRMINGHAM-BY-THE-SEA’ painted on the canvas sky. I am grinning foolishly, as well I might, at such a tempting, far-fetched fantasy. Birnam Wood will come to Dunsinane before there is a beach in Balsall Heath.

The grandest and most thrilling cities – Rio, Sydney, San Francisco – are dignified and exhilarated by seafronts, or tide-washed estuaries, or at least, like London and Paris, by a river big enough for docks and ocean-going boats. It seems almost aberrant, a snub to Nature, when the City and the Water are far apart. Yet in Birmingham, all we have to compete with the Tiber and the Danube and the Thames is a knee-deep, concrete culvert called the River Rea. And the only stretch of city-centre water is the motionless canal basin at gas Street. The nearest sea is two hours down the M5 motorway at Weston-super-Mare – unless you're unlucky with the tide, in which case it’s Weston-super-Mud. The closest proper coast is in west Wales, beyond the hills. There's not a city in the length of Britain that is less salty than my own.

There was a time when such a deprivation would not have mattered to me much. My love – and need – of coasts has come with middle age. When I was younger and more adventurous I did not find myself fidgeting like some brine junkie if two months passed without the tranquillising fix of spray and shore. Indeed, for more than two years in the 1960s, when I was a volunteer in the Sudan and teaching in Botswana, on the edge of the Kalahari, I didn’t glimpse an ocean even once, and didn’t miss it for an instant. I was in my early twenties, and wanting landscapes that were dislocating, challenging and hard. I was a lover first of deserts, then of hills.

But even in the Kalahari I could not entirely escape the softer, bookish romance of the coast. Some witless academic examiner in Britain, either not caring or not knowing that Botswana was a nation with hardly any standing water or rainfall, 600 miles from the coast, had chosen The Pearl by John Steinbeck as a GCE set text. My pupils, none of whom had ever seen the sea and for whom the ocean was as relevant and reachable as outer space, had to grapple with the oyster and the shark, the reef, the snorkel and the surf, and listen to me rhapsodising all the wonders of the shore. I’ll not forget their disbelieving, shaking heads when I described a giant clam, or their attempts at drawing octopuses.

An equally witless academic had been at work when I was living in the Sudan, 500 miles form the Red Sea coast, in the Saharan suburbs across the Blue Nile from Khartoum. Their set-book that year was J Meade Falkner's Moonfleet. I taught them definitions they would never need – a smuggler’s cove, a sea-breached keg of Navy rum, a barnacle, a storm-tossed bank of bladderwrack, a running tide – all words that now are potent enough to make me daydream of Cornwall and high cliffs, the bony flight of fulmars, the safe, salty odours of a beach. But this was 1969 and I was only 23; I wanted all my journeys to be risks.

Each weekend I used to take off on my 98cc Yamaha or in a borrowed Mini Moke (both surprisingly mobile in deep sand) and drive into the Bayudha Desert. Here, I thought, was everything that sea-tossed England lacked: the all-embracing heat; the defiant landscape with its few dry plants clinging madly to the slipping, never-ending scrub; and a silence so unashamed and vivid that just to be there was to feel heroic and exposed.

One day, carelessly turning pieces of stone below the truncated pyramids at Meroe, I was stung at the base of my little finger by a baby scorpion. I had to ride back to Khartoum with one working hand and the other throbbing and swelling with hardly bearable pain. Just south of El Geili, at dusk, an eagle owl attracted by the headlamps on my Yamaha came out of nowhere, swooping for the tasty titbit of my eyes. I ducked in time. Its talons took three ruts of skin and hair out of my scalp. I wiped the blood across my forehead with my one good hand. I'd never felt so hunted or so glad to be alive. I thought I’d love the desert till I died.

It was not until almost 30 years later, when I was exploring Judea, that I could finally admit that my youthful love affair with deserts – and, indeed, with what had become my second passion, the high landscapes of Europe – had ended. I had at last fixed my heart elsewhere.

Izzat abu Rabia, my Bedouin guide, and I had been walking in the pie-crust hills behind Qumran when he received an urgent summons to Gaza on his mobile phone. Within an hour we were in his Jeep and heading for the nearest surfaced road. I was not pleased. Plucked from some of the most romantic and evocative desert scenery in the world I’d have to spend – to waste – the day in Tel Aviv.

I went down to the Tayelet Promenade and walked a little grumpily along the manicured and unremitting sand of the Bograshov Beach. There are few beaches on the Mediterranean less engaging than this. Indeed, there are few seas, for me at least, as uninspiring. The Med is far too meek; all its salt-soaked history, all the wine-dark colours of its bays, all its cradling of civilisation, can never compensate for such a short and feeble tide. What few waves there were in Tel Aviv that day were emasculated by the defensive breakwaters offshore; any coastal magic was defiled by traffic noise and blocks of bland hotels.

But nothing can repress or silence a sea entirely, even one as docile as the Med, and nothing can reduce the shimmer and the splendour of a sky and ocean as, far out on the horizon, they attempt to reconcile their battling greens and blues. High in the desert hills of Judea I’d been an awe-struck visitor, as ill at ease as a Botswanan on a beach. Down by the sea I was at home again amongst meanings and definitions that I’d understood since my first paddle, two years old, at Walton on the Naze. This was the reassuring universe of Moonfleet and The Pearl.

New-Age beach-huggers of my acquaintance regard a love of coastlines as instinctive and primordial. One can’t evade the bio-sentimental links, they say, between the music of a lapping shore and, first, the rhythmic pulsing of your mother's womb and, then, the ancient echoes of our primeval selves dragging our damp, evolving bodies from the ocean to the land. But no; sitting on the beach that afternoon in Tel Aviv with nothing to achieve except to see the sun go down, I recognised that for me the pleasures of the shore were less nebulous. I simply liked the wildly ruminative and mantric entertainment of the waves.

That morning, when I’d been sitting on the odourless ridges of Judea, overlooking the blue peaks of Moab, it had seemed that nothing, other than the weather and the light, could change, would change, as long as I stayed put, even for a century; the continuity was its appeal. But on the beach at Tel Aviv, and especially on oceanic coasts where the tides are deep and restless, an hour is enough for everything to change. The waters dance before your eyes, retreating and advancing to directions from the weather and the moon. What once was shallow water is now sand. What once was deep unbroken sea has sunk a foot or two to bare its rocks and weed. The tide has flooded in where there were pools and picnic spots. And then the waves retreat again to lace the beach with stranded lines of kelp, concealing stones or shells or crabs. The coast is always on the move. Impermanence is its appeal.

Nowadays, I am obsessed with being on the coast. Not out at sea; I have no appetite for boats, nor for the grandeurs or dramas of the stormy world offshore. What I like best are deeply tidal coasts in places where the light is thin and sharp, and where there is always the danger of a chilling wind and slate-grey seas. The tropics will not do, though I have spent exciting times in Mauritius, for example, and in Lombok, both of which have seashores out of paradise. But the beaches there are too hard lit. I much prefer the classic coasts of North America: scenic Highways One and One-O-One, the seashore-hugging roads that run north from California and Oregon through stands of cypresses and redwoods to Ocean City in Washington State. Or the ribbon of outer banks and barrier islands that stretch southwards out of Maine and finish at the Florida Keys. What better way to pass a week than ferry-hopping on the ever-restless Carolinas coast – from Roanoke Island to Cape Hatteras to Ocracoke Island – knowing that these thin shreds of sand dunes which stand between the Atlantic and Albermarle and Pamlico Sounds will have been moved and rearranged by wind and waves the next time that you visit them. Dunes migrate; they spread themselves inland. The sea erodes. Gales rip the wooden houses down and fell the trees.

But the single seascape that has become my second home (and would become my first if my liking for Birmingham were any weaker) is only 30 miles from Britain. The Scilly Isles, off Land’s End, an archipelago of five inhabited and more than 130 uninhabited islands, have everything the Med does not. No traffic-blaring, mad Corniche; no overcrowded beaches, swarming with tourists and their share-staking towels; no high, hard light; no uninspiring and feeble tide. In Scilly, the inter-tidal zones between the islands can peel back for up to a mile. A thousand years ago, these tidal flats were fields. The Iron Age ‘hedges’ and cottage hearths can still be found, barnacled and draped in kelp. At one time, the inhabited islands, apart from St Agnes, were all joined. But the sea’s a shape-shifter; it has risen. And it is rising still, 10 inches every century. The coast is closing in.

So there is hope for Birmingham. I have a fantasy. I’ve seen the ‘worst-case’ Global Warming maps. A small rise in temperature would melt the ice caps and bring the ocean flooding in across East Anglia and Lincolnshire, breaching the Northampton Uplands to put the Rotunda on the clifftops overlooking Digbeth Beach. My city would benefit at last from the one frontier that developers cannot spoil or compromise. We’d have the softening touch of sea frets, the timpani of marinas, docks and ships; we’d have reef and surf. Spaghetti Junction would be where it has always seemed to belong – up to its knees in waves. Spaghetti Pier. The Midland Corniche. BIRMINGHAM-BY-THE-SEA. Hasten the day!

© Jim Crace 1999

 

4.   Waiting for a Miracle

Sunday Times Magazine, 22 Jan 2006

This report from Cambodia was commissioned by the medical charity Médecins Sans Frontières and published in slightly edited form in The Sunday Times Magazine as part of a series. The magazine funded the travel; the writers in this series, which have included Martin Amis, DBC Pierre, Tracy Chevalier, and Hari Kunzru, have donated their fees to MSF.

The volunteer farmers who bare their skin throughout the night and offer their blood to the mosquitoes of Pailin are taking grave risks for a good reason. Armed with a flashlight, some cotton wool and a test tube each and with their trouser legs rolled up, it is their low-tech duty to wait until an insect, attracted mostly by the carbon dioxide in perspiration or breath, alights on their skin to feed, and then to capture it for the laboratories of Phnom Penh where its disease-bearing parasite levels can be assessed.  In this remotest district of Cambodia, tight up against the Thai border on the northern slopes of the Cardamom mountains where the Khmer Rouge fought their final battles and where some of their cadres are now senior figures in the administration, the tropical mosquitoes are amongst the world’s most deadly. A single unlucky bite and any one of these eight human baits, working in four-hour shifts, could be infected with Japanese encephalitis of which [in September 2005] there is currently an epidemic. In the past six months almost a thousand south-east Asians have died from it and many thousands more are facing paralysis or brain damage. Or these volunteers could become the bone-aching, haemorrhaging victims of dengue which is at its most virulent during this season of monsoons and which, though not normally lethal except for children and the very old, is incurable. According to Richard Veerman, my Médecins Sans Frontières (MSF) host and its Head of Mission in Cambodia, who has himself only just recovered from the  fever, “You can do nothing about it but sit out the pain and hope not to die.”

 

But it is neither dengue nor encephalitis that should worry me most, when I sit down on the boggy ground with my back against the hemp hedge in the tiny, rain-soaked village of Pang Rolim to join the volunteers and bare my own leg to the mosquitoes. Nor is it the deadly Russell’s vipers or the cobras that are common in the soy-bean fields just yards behind us. Nor is it even the undetected and undetonated landmines which, according to a recent UNICEF report, make these farmlands “one of the most dangerous places in the world.”  What should have kept our legs covered is the knowledge that the anopheles mosquitoes of Pailin or, more specifically, the single cell plasmodium falciparum malaria parasites which live in them and us, were the first in the world to develop (through over-prescribing and  incomplete dosing) a resistance to chloroquine. This is the drug  which for decades has been humankind’s main defence against malaria. I have suffered from malaria before, in The Sudan, and I survived with little more than a debilitating fever, but that was the less deadly p.vivax strain which has yet to develop resistance to drugs.

 

Yet my fellow volunteers and I are not being foolhardy. We can be relatively confident  that whatever the parasite-load of the vectors filling their abdomens with our blood, we are unlikely to contribute to the worldwide toll of 2.7 million malaria deaths each year (out of the at least 350 million -almost exclusively poor- people who, according to a UN report of May 2005, sicken with the disease.) In this fortunate village at least, there is a new and readily available treatment for p.falciparum, a cocktail based on artemisinin, an extract from sweet wormwood. But it has to be administered swiftly. All the locals understand from the too recent and bitter experience of neighbours that to contract this strain of malaria in Pailin and leave it to its own devices, is to invite a rapid and painful death. After a week or more of gestation, we could expect fever, muscle pains, and headaches, explains Bart Janssens, MSF’s medical co-ordinator. For any victims beyond the reach of artemisinin, however, diarrhoea, nausea, anaemia might develop. And then, finally, in a third to a half of all cases, there would be “severe complications”, including brain damage, multiple organ failure and coma. “You could be dead in ten days,” he warns. “It happens. And it is a horrible way to die.” 

 

Our job that night, under the cheerful scrutiny of entomologist,  Dr.Tho Sochantha, from the Centre for Malariology, is to help verify what the rapidly falling p.falciparum prevalence and death toll has been suggesting, that MSF’s volunteer-based, rapid treatment programme for malaria in these forest-edge villages, where heavy shade and high humidity offer the perfect conditions for breeding mosquitoes, is “breaking the pathways of transmission” between female insects, parasites and humans.

 

My own contribution to the insect survey is only modest. I seem at first to be more attractive to ants than mosquitoes. But finally, in the pitch darkness and to the midnight plainting of cicadas, I learn to recognise the weightless, fussy probing of anopheles on my shins and I begin to fill a test tube with my captives. At the end of my shift, Dr Sochantha holds my tally up to his magnifier and, much to the delight of a crowd which has abandoned a blaring, battery-powered television set to watch a European make a meal of himself, declares my specimens to be “from a vector that normally prefers to feed on cows.” He would be happy to offer me a trapper’s job at any time, though.  “You are a good hunter,” he says. “Their abdomens are not bloated. You have captured them before they could feed.”  What I do not mention is that, though my leg has not been pierced, the back of my neck is already itchy and lumpy from a dozen uninterrupted bites.

 

*

 

Over the next few days, in the pretty, straw-roofed, stilt villages of Treng Leu and Phnom Reang (or Tree Mountain), accessible to only the toughest off-road vehicles with the most reckless of drivers, the MSF mobile malaria team and its dignified and gentle Thai co-ordinator, Raden Srihawong, meet up with some of their 40 trained community volunteers to “mass screen” every available inhabitant for malaria. Their simple purpose is “to reduce malaria morbidity by finding more patients.” The villagers, in their mixture of traditional blouses and fake Nike or Puma t-shirts and an eclectic array of hats, are queuing in the mud at the temporary canvas and bamboo tents that MSF has erected for its medical inspection. They are the strongest-looking buildings in the village. There is a lot of barking from the distinctively curly-tailed dogs and some crying from the children. Both seem alarmed by the presence of so many strangers and so much activity. But all the adults are delighted -and a little amazed- to have so much medical attention offered for free and on their home patch. These are some of the poorest communities in Asia. Not one has a school for its children. Not one has any electricity or sanitation. Not one has water for washing or cooking, other than that provided by the heavens. At this time of the year, the heavens have provided more than generously. A week of monsoons has turned the countryside into one great puddle. No-one can go anywhere if they are not prepared to wade. But for most of the year, the land is dry and baked and the living is hard.  “There are three harvests a year in Thailand,” observes Bart Janssens. “But in Cambodia there is only one,  and in Pailin there is probably only a half. This is a land of grave inequalities. Most of these farmers can produce enough food for six months, but then they have to catch ins